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March 4 -- Our plane landed at 11:15 pm, but by the time we got thru customs, got our bags and met our tour agent and transported to the hotel, checked in, we finally got in bed about 1:30 am.  Got up at seven for great breakfast buffet, then finally met our group at 9.  After loading into buses, we had a city tour of Quito which is at 9200 ft elevation in the Andes mountains of Ecuador.  First drove up to top of a mountain (about 10,200 ft elev) to see a statue of the Apocalytic Virgin Mary that stands about 165 ft high.  It can be seen from most of Quito proper.  Back down to the Colonial older section of Quito which was built by the Spaniards during the time they occupied much of S America.  Saw the oldest and main church on Independence Square, built by the Franciscan order.  You could not take photos inside, but it was probably the most gold leaf we have ever seen in a church---including all the churches we have seen in Europe.  Really something!  Next we visited another of the older Jesuit churches, and though we could take photos, there was a mass taking place, so limited our pictures.  We got to go into the courtyard of a convent (that is what they call it, but it is actually for monks, not nuns) next door.  Beautiful gardens.  We then headed out of town to go north, crossing the equator, and seeing different types of terrain/agriculture.  We came to the Cayambe Valley, where they are known for dairy production, produce, and roses.  We stopped at the Hacienda La Compania de Jesus, for lunch in the home of a woman who now owns the home built by her grandparents in 1919.  Very nice lunch.  Then they showed us the chapel built much earlier than the house.  It was where her parents were married, as well as she and her husband. But principally they showed us their rose plantation.  We toured the greenhouses where the roses are grown---they cut approx. 46,000 roses/day.  And beautiful ones!  We then visited the production/packaging room where they strip the leaves and thorns, and sort them by stem length and color.  They then box them, wrap in cellophane, box in shipping boxes and keep in ‘cold room’ until they ship them all over the world—within 7 days.  What an operation!  We then drove 30 minutes further and stopped at our hotel for the next two nights, Hacienda Cuisin, which is older than the other hacienda.

 

March 5 -- We left Hacienda Cusin and drove about a half hour to Otavalo.  This being Saturday, all the indigenious people come to town to buy or sell many things.  We first went for a short time to the animal market where they sold everything from pigs (large and small) to guinea pigs, rabbits, chickens, dogs and cows. We then went to the downtown area to the artisan market and produce market.  We walked around and saw many native made items, but since many were wool, we passed them by.  Lynne did buy a peasant blouse and a silver and stone necklace pendant.  Leaving the market we went for short drive to Hacienda Pinsaqui, a hacienda built about 300 years ago and has housed 7 generations.  We had a nice lunch overlooking the grounds (many beautiful agapanthas).  During the lunch we were serenaded by three brothers, one of which played pan flute.  
After lunch, most of the group went on the bus up the mountain to see a condor rescue area.  However, 9 of us hardy souls went horseback riding for about two hours.  We saw many fields with corn, fava bea, qunoa, and tree tomatoes growing.  We also saw many of the indigenious people and their homes.  Back to the hacienda and then a quick bus ride back to the Hacienda Cusin for the night.  Most of us were pretty sore when we got off the horses!  Had delicious dinner again at the Hacienda Cusin.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

March 6 -- After a delicious breakfast, we left our hotel and drove to Cotacachi volcano. This volcano collapsed long ago creating a caldera and the then melting glaciers made a lake in the caldera.  In the middle of the lake are three domes that were also formed and they will maybe someday in far future have volcanic activity.  We first hiked up to a lookout spot to see the whole lake.  Some hardy souls hiked up a little further, but we all met back at a dock where we took a boat ride out around the domes.  We saw a number of America coots (mud hens) as well as white egrets and much bromeliad growth on the domes.  At one point the boat was taken close to the shore, where it was very easy to see bubbles coming up thru the water showing that there is volcanic energy in the lower domes area.  After departing the boat, we boarded the bus and headed back to Quito for the night.  On the way we stopped for pictures at the ‘middle of the earth’—the point of the equator.  Back at the hotel, we are on our own for dinner and have to get ready to leave hotel at 6:30 am to fly to the Galapagos via Guayaquil, Ecuador (which is on the coast southwest of Quito).

 

Sorry for the delay in posting our activities.  The internet service on the boat (in the Galapagos) was almost non-existent.  We are now in Guayaquil (Mar 11).

 

March 7 -- Left the hotel at 6:30am to catch our flight from the Quito airport to Guayaquil and then on to Baltra airport on Baltra island, Galapagos.  Once we landed, went thru customs, then identified our luggage, we took a ferry to the nearby island of Santa Cruz.  First we had a nice lunch at a local ranch and then went a short distance to another ranch that backs up to the Galapagos National Park.  Here we split into several small groups and walked around the fields in this area.  This is the home of the land tortoises.  They roam freely and are various sizes---from juveniles (probably 20-25 years old) to the oldest one we saw who is probably over 100 years old.  It was estimated that he weighed over 600 pounds.  Along the way we saw several types of birds and some ducks.  It was interesting to see the one pond where the ducks were, as it was covered with thick layer of algae (you couldn’t even see the water).  When we left there, we drove to the only town on this island, Puerto Ayora, where we took pangas (what we would call zodiac boats) to our ship, the Isabella II.  Tomorrow we will visit two islands, hiking a trail at both islands, and snorkeling at one of them.  While snorkeling we will be swimming with the sea lions.  Today was quite an elevation change.  The last 4 days we have been roaming around between 8000 to 10,500’; today we are at sea level.  

 

March 8--Our activities today started with zodiac rides into a bay area where we did a ‘wet landing’ on the beach.  After we dried our feet and got our shoes back on, we headed off on a mile hike of the landscape of Santa Fe island.  Here we saw quite a few of one of the native land iguana species.  These are sand colored and sometimes really blended in with the environment.  Coming back to the beach area we watched the sea lions playing in the water and on the beach.  The zodiacs took us back to the boat to change into swim gear, then took us back to the bay for snorkeling.  Lynne had a problem when she first got in the water, so got back on the zodiac, got her breathing back under control, then got back in the water closer to shore (and more slowly).  This time no problems and we both enjoyed it.  The sea lions would jump in the water and swim around you, but paid no attention to you.  We also saw several kinds of fish---the water was so crystal clear!  After snorkeling, we went back to boat for lunch and some time to rest while the boat moved to Barrington island.  Around 3:30 we went to this (‘dry landing’) for another nature hike.  Here we saw another species of land iguanas different from the ones we had seen in the morning.  We also saw more sea lions, several species of birds including nocturnal sea gulls, and some baby marine iguanas.  Back to the boat for dinner, then we had a star gazing demo by one of our naturalists---with no ambient light you could pick out all the constellations!

 

March 9 – After a 6:45 wakeup and breakfast, we were off to North Seymour island for a hike around the island.  This is where we finally got to see the blue footed booby bird, as well as two varieties of frigates.  Most interesting was the courtship patterns of both of these birds.  The male blue footed booby will fly up to a female, put his tail up and lift his feet one at a time, to show his interest in her.  If she acts interested, he will get closer and keep trying to win her.  We have pictures of one of these “dances”, but in the end she flew off uninterested.  The male frigate bird has a red pouch under his beak that he puffs up to attract females to him.  He also has a nest built that he is sitting on which he hopes will attract the female to be his mate.  We saw quite a few of both birds and some of the frigate young chicks.  After the hike, Mike chose to go snorkeling again while Lynne road in the glass bottom boat.  Besides seeing many types of fish, Mike saw a sting ray, and from the boat Lynne saw about 10 sharks on the bottom.  After lunch and time to rest, we went to Santa Cruz island for a hike along the beach where we saw the green sea turtle nests, and also a lagoon where there was one lone flamingo.  As we passed on the beach, it was fun to watch the blue footed boobys dive for fish, along with the brown pelicans.  Once we got back to our starting point on the beach, several of us went into the surf to swim.  Didn’t stay long as the current was pretty strong.  Back to the boat, we noticed that one of our group had gotten the captain to fly our Longhorn flag! 

 

March 10 – We got an early start this morning, leaving on the pangas for Bartholemew island.  This island is largely lava and has little vegetation.  We climbed up many steps on a wooden boardwalk to the top of the volcano rim.  Lynne had to stop several times, but did make it to the top!  From there you could see many of the islands around.  You could also see a good view of Pinnacle Rock which is a part of Bartholemew island, a landmark often pictured when referring to the Galapagos islands. Once we descended, we took a tour aboard the pangas along the coastline of this island.  We were lucky to spot two of the Galapagos penguins—the only penguins that live anywhere except the South Pole.  Mike then went snorkeling while Lynne again rode on the glass bottom boat.  We again saw many native fish and a few sharks and rays, but the most interesting thing on the glass bottom boat was an area that had about 25-30 starfish all in one area.  Later in the afternoon, we went to a lava flow bed where lava had flowed from a volcano that erupted about 150-200 years ago.  It was very stark and beautiful in a bizarre kind of way.  Only two types of plants grow there—a small plant that almost looked like a weed and another called lava cactus.  Tonight we had farewell cocktail with the captain.  Tomorrow we leave the boat to fly back to Guayaquil, Ecaudor.

 

March 11 - We transferred from the boat, via panga, to the shore and then to the airport on Baltra island via bus.  We flew to Guayaquil and were transferred to the Hilton Hotel for the night. So no pictures today.  Only 10 of the group, including us, are going on to Peru.  The rest of the group are flying home tomorrow.

 

March 12 – For the people going on to Peru, we did not leave until 6:30 pm, so we had a tour of the city of Guayaquil.  Quito is the capital of Ecuador, but Guayaquil is the financial/economic center of Ecuador.  Our first stop was an old park in the downtown area called Iguana Park.  This is because there are lots of green iguanas there.  They used to roam all over (even inside the church across the street during mass), but now they are fed and stay only in the park. We also went into the church, then walked to the municipal buildings and to the new boardwalk along the river. It had rained heavily in past weeks so there was a lot of water plants floating down the river.  Coming back toward the hotel, we drove by a huge cemetary—so big it has 18 gates.  They are buried above ground as they are at sea level.  We flew to Lima in the evening arriving about 9:30.  Luckily our hotel was right at the airport, but it was too late to do our blog.

 

 

 

 

 

March 13 – Up early today to catch our flight to Cusco where we were met by our guide.  We are 10 in our group, so all are in a small bus.  We went first for a short visit to a small zoo type place that had llamas, alpacas, and vicunas so we could see the difference between these animals.  Our guide had told us that at one time, the Incans had grown 3500 different types of potatoes. This place also had a display to show many of the varieties (not all 3500!) as well as many varieties of corn. We drove thru what the Incans called the Sacred Valley.  We went to a market and were shown the difference between baby alpaca and adult alpaca sweaters, scarves, etc.  Saw a beautiful sweater, but could not convince myself to buy it for about $150 when I would probably only wear it once or twice a year at most! From the market we drove to where we were to eat lunch.  Along the way, we slowed down to see the people selling roasted guinea pigs---interesting! We had a very good lunch—family style at each table of all native foods.  While we ate, we had a demonstration of Peruvian horsemanship.  After lunch we went to the village of Ollantaytambo where there are many Incan ruins and a temple up the hill.  It had turned cooler and the wind was blowing, so Lynne decided to stay below and wait, while Mike climbed the ruins with the group.  Then on to our hotel---very nice.

March 14 -- Left our hotel and drove to Ollantaytambo to catch the train.  We rode 1.5 hrs thru slowly changing terrain and vegetation, as we were going down in elevation and also closer to the Amazon jungle.  Arrived at Aqua Calientes, our bags went on to the hotel and we boarded a bus for a 25 minutes bus ride up to Machu Picchu.  We went in to the ruin area and took the high area first.  Lots of steps- Lynne made it to the top with Mike's help, but winded for sure. This area gave us the best views of the overall area.  You will see in the pictures that is easy to get carried away and shoot many pictures!

After going back out for lunch (serenaded by the men in the video), we reentered the ruins and saw about 90% of the rest of the ruins. About an hour before we were done, it started to rain, so everyone stopped and put their rain ponchos on.  Once we finished we had to ride the bus back down to Agua Calientes and walk to our hotel, the Inkaterra.  Very nice hotel (with an Amazon ecological motif) built on the hill right next to the river. Agua Calientes is named for the hot springs that run thru the town and also run downhill by the hotel. Once we checked in at the hotel, we both decided to have a massage in the hotel spa.  Really helped the sore muscles! Dinner at the hotel as well as two Pisco Sours each, sort of a whiskey sour made with the local Pisco alcohol.  That did Lynne in, so the blog wasn't finished last night!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

March 15 -- We met at 8am today to ride the bus back up to the ruins.  We were able to keep our room until noon.  At the ruins, we saw 3 things we didn’t see yesterday: the astronomical mirrors, the “surgery” area, and the condor temple.  When we had finished, most of us chose to go back to the hotel.  4 of the group took a hike up the higher mountains—2 on Machu Picchu Mountain and the other 2 up the mountain that shows behind the ruins in most pictures.  They joined us back at the hotel for lunch around 2 pm.  The rest of us had rested, and then ate a very nice lunch in the hotel café right by the train tracks.  At 4:20 we took the train back to Ollantaytambo.  There we boarded a bus back to Cusco, finally reaching the hotel around 9 pm.  Tomorrow we tour Cusco.

One extra note:  The typical greeting between the Incas (and even until today) is:  LLULAR (pronounced yu-ya) meaning “Don’t be a liar”, KELLA (pronounced kay-ya) meaning “Don’t be lazy”, SUA (pronounced su-a) meaning “Don’t be a thief”.  The other person hen answers: KANJINAWAN (pronounced kan-kee-na-wan) meaning “Neither should you!”.

{Observations by Mike:  I was really impressed with the height and steepness of the mountains between Cusco and Machu Picchu – they were just spectacular!  Machu Picchu was a city work in progress and abandoned (current thinking was because of the approaching Spaniards) fairly suddenly and the fleeing inhabitants left tools, clothing, and a fairly intact city.  I was really impressed with the civil engineering of the city with building layout and the water aqueducts and fountains (still flowing).  I thought the crowds were heavy, but our guides said the crowds were light.  Machu Picchu is on the edge of the Amazon jungle and this may be the reason it was hidden from the Spaniards – tropical growth hid the city in very little time (and it stayed that way for 400 years).  My recommendation is that you should see it, but be prepared for a fair amount of walking and many steps up and down.}

 

March 16 -- Up and out at 8:30, drove up out of Cusco to three more Incan ruins, Saqsaywaman (a temple built with huge stones fitted together without mortar--amazing), Tambomachay (a rest spot for travelers traveling to or from Cusco to the Amazon or to the Pacific coast or other parts of Peru), and Q'enqo (a special place for sacrifices).  Cusco was the capital of the Incan world and is at an elevation of about 11,000 ft.  The ruins we saw today were all above 12,000 ft and the Tambomachay was 12,5352 ft.  Walking (especially uphill or steps) can really tire you out at these elevations!  We came back for lunch on our own, then went to an artisans market for a few trinkets. At 2:30, our guide, took us on a walking tour of Cusco where we saw three churches, the largest of which was the Cathedral, the oldest and largest in the whole of S America.  After we returned from the walking tour---my Jawbone fitness band said we had logged 11,352 steps today.  Our legs and knees are feeling it! Tonight we left at 7:30 to go to the Museum of pre-Incan art, which is housed in a building that once was an Incan palace.  When the Spanish invaded, they took it over as a home for one of their important families, but since has been converted to a museum. Interesting building and very interesting artifacts.  They also serve dinner in this museum and apparently reservations have to be made 6 months ahead.  It was very good.  This was our 'farewell' dinner as we fly back to Lima tomorrow afternoon and then most everyone flys home yet that night.  We extended for one day so we could see Lima and we will fly home the next night late---getting in to Austin around noon Saturday (19th).

 

March 17 -- We had the morning free before leaving for the Cusco airport.  But with all the walking/climbing we had been doing the past couple days, we decided we needed to rest.  We did walk down the street and ate lunch.  We flew to Lima arriving around 5:30. Most of the group was flying on back to Texas later in the evening, but we had paid to stay over one night, so we were driven to the Casa Andina Hotel in the Mira Flores section of Lima.  We had a reservation at a restaurant on a pier over the beach--La Rosa Nautica, so after we dropped our suitcases off in our room, we were driven to the restaurant.  Another couple joined us and we had a very nice dinner.  They took a taxi back to the airport as their plane left at 1:30 am.  We took a taxi back to the hotel.  Only one picture today -- restaurant we went to in Lima.

 

 

 

 

March 18 -- We had set up before we left to have a city tour of Lima this morning.  At 9:30 am we met Alex in the lobby and we left with him and a driver in our own van.  They took us to downtown Lima where we saw the different sights regarding Lima's history. While walking we passed the Peruvian Presidential residence where a military band was playing in preparation for the changing of the guards (see short video to right and below).  Alex clarified that though the rest of Peru has the Incan/Indian history, Lima does not.  This is largely because they are on the coast and when the Spanish came, they set up their colony on the coast as it was easier to get supplies/goods in and out.  The Spainish also moved Peru's capital from Cusco (the Inca empire capital) to Lima.  So Lima has a very European influence. We are on our own this afternoon and leave for the airport at 9:30pm for a takeoff Saturday morning at 1:55am.  We hope to be back in Sunrise Beach NLT 5pm Saturday.  This will be the end of our trip blog.  Hope you enjoyed it!

 

{Mike's observations:  Our guide for the whole trip is from El Salvador and our guide today from Lima.  We have gotten a fairly good insight into how the communist regimes (of both countries) just killed their economies.  In both cases the two countries went from a thriving (and well-off) economy to an almost non-existent economy because of the Communists.  Peru is still Socialist and moving slowly back to a private economy.  El Salvador now has the 2nd worst economy in all South/Central America.  Interestingly today while walking around the downtown part of Lima, there were policemen/women everywhere.  Our guide Alex said they were there to control the protesters (in this case protesting for more municipal services (water, trash pickup, sewer, etc.).  Also, while tourism is a primary industry in Peru, everywhere you went (hotels, trains, entrance to National Park, etc.) you had to show your passport.  I've never been in a country where you had to show your passport so much.  Seems like there is paranoia here where there is no need.  So, bottom line I would still recommend a trip here; Cusco and Machu Picchu should be on your bucket list.}

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