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Germany -- Hill Towns of Italy tour
October 2-14, 2021
October 2-4--We drove to Austin Saturday afternoon for a United flight to Houston. We arrived early and managed to get on an earlier flight (than originally scheduled) and arrived at Houston with a two hour layover. We left Houston about 7pm and arrived at Frankfurt about 12:30pm. We flew with United and in business class. Sure does make the long flight easier when you can lay down to sleep. In Frankfurt we got our Budget rental car and drove over to the Mosel River area (this is where we lived in the early 80s). We are staying at the Rochter Landhotel in Zeitingen-Rachtig. Weather was typical for the Hunsruck part of Germany -- overcast with light showers. But we did get in a nice walk before dinner. Below are some pictures of old buildings in Zeitingen-Rachtig. For dinner we drove down the Mosel River and stopped at a restaurant for dinner. Nothing like German wine and food!
Dinner started with Fanta for Lynne and Reisling wine for Mike
Lynne had Jager schnitzel and Mike had Rumpsteak with onions
Mike riding the ebike
Dinner started with Fanta for Lynne and Reisling wine for Mike
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October 5 -- It was supposed to rain this afternoon, so after breakfast at our hotel we drove over to the old Hahn airbase (now a regional airport). We tried to get close to my old squadron building, but it was fenced off quite away from it -- never did get to see it. Then Lynne wanted to do some shopping in Trier (the oldest town in Germany) and off we went. Turned out this morning and early afternoon was just perfect weather (after the morning fog burned off) with clear skies and roughly 50 Fahrenheit. Right now at 4:00 pm German time it is very overcast and trying to rain. Not sure how we would be navigating without the phone app Waze. It is amazing how up-to-date it is as well as giving perfect instructions right down to the closest 50'.
Lynne did her shopping buying some things she has a hard time finding in the states and we tried having lunch in Kaufhof -- one of the largest department stores in Trier. Unfortunately, the cashier wanted me to show proof of COVID vaccination and a recent negative COVID test. I had all that stuff in the hotel room (since no one has asked for that before in the time we've been here), so no lunch. We drove back to our hotel along the Mosel River road -- it is so scenic with the multitude of grape fields on the valley hillsides. I wanted to stop and take pictures, but the road was relatively narrow with almost no pull-off spots. We ended up having a late lunch here in Zeitingen-Rachtig. After resting a while in our room, we left to go to dinner. Two we tried were "fully booked" (on a Tuesday night!). Another asked for the CoVid ("Corona" here) paperwork which of course was back in our room. Not like in the old days when you walked in and asked for a table for two. We did finally find one that took us and we both had currywurst. As a side note, I really realized that the attitude of the Germans has slowly been evolving away from liking Americans. When we lived there in the 80s, they were so appreciative that we had rebuilt their country and were there keeping the Russians out. Now (without the American military adding to their economy) it just seemed to Lynne and me that they didn't speak as much American English and they also just didn't seem as friendly. I guess the old saying that you can't go back may just be true!
Porta Nigra gate in Trier Trier is the oldest city in Germany--over 2000 years built by Romans
Trier town square--fountain & church in background
Our dinner--currywurst, pomme frites and a salad. Lynne again had Fanta and Mike had halb trocken Mosel Reisling wine.
Porta Nigra gate in Trier Trier is the oldest city in Germany--over 2000 years built by Romans
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October 6 -- We got up early so that we could get to the Frankfurt airport. Even Goggle Maps said the trip could vary +- 40 minutes over the standard one hour 40 minutes. So we left the hotel about 6:30 am and off we went. Another feature that has evolved is the number of trucks on the autobahn and also the general rural roads. There were many trucks and all going 20-40 km/hr below the speed limit. In any case, we got to the airport early, checked in the rental car, and checked our bags. Today's flight is the only leg where we are in the economy section. Boy, what a let-down from flying over the Atlantic. Our tour guide met us at the airport and we and 3 other couples were off on a small bus. The trip to Cortona was about 1:45 in length -- much on the Italian AutoStrade.
Villa Marsili Hotel in Cortona Italy--a medieval town on a hill
We went for a short walk before dinner. This is the street our hotel is on. Lynne went back after short time as it started raining again.
Courtyard as you enter
Villa Marsili Hotel in Cortona Italy--a medieval town on a hill
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October 7 -- Set alarm for 7 am for a 7:30 breakfast. The hotel served us way too much food. Interestingly even though breakfast was a buffet, the manager and waiter insisted that they select where we indicated. Lynne reached for a roll and was immediately told to keep her hands off. After breakfast, we had about an hour lecture on the history of Cortona followed by a walking tour (pictures below). Lynne and I were so full from breakfast we had a small snack at a wine bar (but didn't drink wine). After lunch, we took a bus ride to Monticello (about a 90-minute bus ride) for a winery tour and tasting. We had 3 different wines (in the picture below) followed by a dessert wine. I thought the Palazzo Altesi was the better of the three (although we all have different wine tastes), and I looked it up on the Spec's website, but could not find it -- sigh! It took about 90 minutes for the return bus ride and Mike slept through most of it. Both of us were really stuffed when we returned to the hotel, so we worked on this blog and then went out to get a snack. Stopped at a wine bar and had our normal drinks as well as a Ceasar Salad for both of us. Mike stopped on the way back to the hotel for a coffee gelato.
Looking out at the valley plain below Cortona. No new building can be done in the old town of Cortona. So for supermarkets, industrial, etc they are down the hill in Camucia
Looking at houses in Cortana below our hotel
Because we had the snacks at the tasting, we didn't want much for supper. We walked to center of town and had a salad in a wine bar. Lynne's Fanta & Mike's red wine -- mmmmm!
Looking out at the valley plain below Cortona. No new building can be done in the old town of Cortona. So for supermarkets, industrial, etc they are down the hill in Camucia
October 8 -- Another huge breakfast and off we go to Siena. The bus drive was about 90 minutes through pleasant hill country scenery. The weather today was dry but mostly cloudy with wind gusts up to 15mph. The bus was only allowed to drive us into the town so far, so then we had to walk the rest of the way to meet our guide. Siena is very hilly so we climbed up and down. The town is divided into 17 districts (neighborhoods) each having their own flag/mascot (animal). They are very competitive. Twice each year they have a horse race around the largest square in town. Each year's winning district celebrates (parties) for several months afterwards! We walked thru town and went first to the Duomo (cathedral) one of the largest in Tuscany. It is beautiful inside and out and they are very proud of it. From there we walked to the square where the horse race takes place. They bring in dirt to put on the track area as it is cobblestones. The race takes place on outer rim of the square (really a rounded trapezoid). City people come out and stand in the center section to watch the festivities before hand and then the race--which takes several hours and is often up to 25,000 people standing together! The race is 3 laps each taking about 30 seconds.
Once we left Siena and came back to Cortona, we had a lecture on the Renaissance at the hotel for an hour. We then went to a very nice restaurant together for dinner compliments of our travel company (AHI International Corporation). Once again way too much food--and later that we normally eat at home.
The Duomo from across town (where we first entered the old ciry)
One of the plaques representing one of the Contrada (neighborhoods) in Siena. This one is the eagle.
This is the square where the horse race takes place. The gray cobblestone area on the perimeter is where they put dirt and the horses race. The center that is an orange color is where the 25,000 people stand for the festivities!
The Duomo from across town (where we first entered the old ciry)
October 9 -- Today we traveled to Orvieto. It is built on a high cliff making it a natural fortress. In the medieval days often the city-states were at war with each other. The city itself was relatively flat compared to Corton and Siena which made walking easier. They also had a large Duomo built to commemorate a miracle that happened there. Like the Duomo in Siena, it was built with light and dark marble. However, the inside was not as ornate. After our tour, we had free time (Lynne shopped a little). Then we left and drove to the Bartolomei olive oil family farm and production company. We had a "light" lunch served to us--all olive-based. Back to the hotel by 5:30 and Mike immediately got on the computer to see if he could watch the UT-OU game. He found a web app for ESPN so we ate some nuts, apple and cookies as our supper while we watched the game.
The Duomo in Orvieto. Similar to the one in Siena with the dark and light marble. Built to commenorate a "miracle"--a priest that was doubting his belief in communion was breaking the bread one Sunday and when he tore the bread apart, blood dripped down on the altar cloth. It is now a relic and stored in a chapel and only on display 3 times a year.
The front of the Duomo. Note the panels on either side of the main door. These were carved marble panels telling the stories of the Bible since many of the people could not read.
Shopping in Orvieto before heading back to Cortona
The Duomo in Orvieto. Similar to the one in Siena with the dark and light marble. Built to commenorate a "miracle"--a priest that was doubting his belief in communion was breaking the bread one Sunday and when he tore the bread apart, blood dripped down on the altar cloth. It is now a relic and stored in a chapel and only on display 3 times a year.
October 10 -- Today we had a later start as we had a lecture at 9 about contemporary Italy. A lot of the problems they have here are similar to problems in the US.
At 10:30 we left to drive to Montepolciana. We stopped first at the church of San Biagio--another church where a miracle occurred. The weather was overcast and cold and windy! Because the next part of the walk was steep several of us (4) took a taxi up to the square. Since we got there before the others we went into the church where mass was going on. Though it was cordoned off, the attendant let the 4 of us in to sit for the mass. So we got to church today though we couldn't understand what they said!
Once the others arrived we walked around the square then headed down to the restaurant where we were served lunch. After lunch, we wandered down the narrow streets to where we met the bus to come back to the hotel. Supper is on our own tonight--though we won't need much as lunch was very filling!
We took a number of images of the Tuscan countryside today. The next 8 pictures are these.
In the restaurant we had a 3 course lunch. This was a chocolate "bomb" that once they poured the lit alcohol over it, melted the chocolate and inside was a mixture of chocolate and marscapone cheese.
We took a number of images of the Tuscan countryside today. The next 8 pictures are these.
October 11 -- Up very early (for this trip) this morning to travel to the walled city of Assisi. We visited the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli (dedicated to the town's most famous resident, St. Francis, in the newer part of Assisi. Then bussed up to the older part of town (on a hill of course) and strolled through the streets. We first visited the Basilica of St Claire. From there we proceeded to the other end of town to the Basilica di San Francesco which is a double church, built on two levels. The lower part was completed in 1230, after which the body of St Francis of Assisi was buried under the high altar. In the upper church were many frescos of the life of St Francis done by Giotto.
Of course, Lynne did some shopping. We had a small lunch overlooking the Basilica consisting of sandwiches and gelato. Mike is still doing his best to support the wine industry here. We then returned back to Cortona for our COVID tests so that we can return to the US. Our tests came back negative. Afterwards, we stopped at a little wine bar for dinner. I had the egg noodles with wild boar ragu (excellent) and Lynne had a pici noodle dish and beef. We returned back to the hotel and started backing for our return Thursday.
The Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli where the little chapel St Francis and his followers used is housed inside the Basilica
On top of this Basilica is the statue of the Virgin Mary all in gold
Once back at the hotel, we were each given a time to go to the local pharmacy (identified in each town with the green cross) to have our CoVid test from returning to the US. We were both negative!
The Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli where the little chapel St Francis and his followers used is housed inside the Basilica
October 12 -- Finally a morning to sleep in. This was a slow day. After a standard huge breakfast, we trooped up into Cortona to visit the Etruscan Museum. Our tour guide was really good and brought us up to speed on the Etruscan history. Turns out they were really good ironworkers and engineers as well as taking input lessons from the Greek culture. Since the Tuscan area is rich in iron ore they established a trading relationship with the Greeks trading mainly their iron ore for Greek pottery. It was an interesting tour with many insights into their history. Fortunately (or unfortunately) they were absorbed by the Romans as they expanded their geographical base. After the tour, we returned to the hotel for a cooking lesson and afterwards had lunch eating what we just saw made. Once again Mike did his best to stimulate the Italian wine industry. We had free time after lunch so started to pack tfor leaving tomorrow. Today the weather was the best we've seen so Lynne and I took a long walk over parts of the city we hadn't visited. Tonight is our farewell dinner. Some are leaving tomorrow morning at 3 am, but we are staying an extra day in Florence so we don't depart the hotel until 9am. We are staying at a B&B in Florence. We leave Florence Thursday at 6:40 am with hops to Frankfurt, Chicago, and then Austin. It will be a very long day.
Our excursion this morning was to the Etruscan museum in Cortona. This area back 200-300 BC on was populated by Etruscans--therefore the name Tuscany for this region of Italy
Walking back to the hotel, this plant is a caper plant. It grows on walls around the town. There were no caper flowers or fruit at this time.
This is called an umbrella pine which you see all over the Tuscan area.
Our excursion this morning was to the Etruscan museum in Cortona. This area back 200-300 BC on was populated by Etruscans--therefore the name Tuscany for this region of Italy
October 13 -- Had another one of our huge breakfasts, checked out of the hotel, and took a van to the Florence airport. Since we are staying one extra day in Florence we then took a cab to a B&B where we had reserved a room It is spartan for a B&B, but typical of what we have found in Europe. We then took off to downtown Florence (walking). I think we finally got in our 10-mile walk today (we definitely needed it after all the eating we've done here in Europe). We got a sandwich at the Mercato Centrale (a large market that had eating areas). For mid-October in Florence, there were many tourists with long lines to get into some of the tourist spots. There was also a considerable amount of construction/renovation in the center of town. On the way walking all around town, we got a gelato downtown. We will eat at a nearby local restaurant recommended by our B&B host for supper and then early to bed as we leave for the airport at 4:30 am!
The balcony outside our room. The open door is our room
The basilica of San Lorenzo. We heard drums and when we got in front it was a young man playing drum sticks on several different size plastic containers
Walking back to our B&B we saw this cafe called Tijuana--with their sign "Make tacos-not war"!
The balcony outside our room. The open door is our room
This will probably be our last day to enter info on this trip. We are traveling all day on Thursday, Oct 14th with hops to Frankfurt, O'Hare, and then Austin. After landing in Austin we have to retrieve Mike's truck and spend another 75 minutes driving back to Sunrise Beach. This has been one of our more education trips learning more about the Etruscans and Italian history. Most likely we also gained more than a few pounds. :)