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Morocco - March 10-23, 2023
March 10 -- Left Austin at 6:15 to Newark airport. 6+ hour layover at Newark. Spent most of the time in the United Club. It was in a temporary location as the original was being renovated. Not as nice as Miami, but still better than sitting at the gate. Then flew to Montreal and spent about 2 hours in the Air Canada lounge. It has a buffet, free soft drinks, and wine -- not as nice as the United Club in Miami. Debbie and Larry finally showed up, and after a drink and a few snacks, we wandered to our gate. We boarded on time, but due to various factors, we were 95 minutes behind schedule when we pushed back. When we got to the gate, we discovered that Air Canada had switched airplanes, and the seating was all messed up. Lynne and I were across from each other, but my TV was inoperative. The flight to Casablanca was uneventful once we took off.
March 11 -- We landed in Casablanca at about 10 am. Customs seemed to take a long time, and waiting for the baggage was even longer. There were about eight others in our tour group on the flight that we met outside the airport. We thought that they were going to have a bus for us, but we all came to Rabat in taxis. The drive over was exciting -- the taxi driver managed to use all lanes almost simultaneously on a very crowded road. We are staying at The Tour Hassan Hotel, which is very nice.
Our hotel, Tour Hassan, named because it is near the famed Hassan Tower (which we will see tomorrow)
The hotel lobby. Note the tile work that goes all the way around the main floor.
Another interesting wall near the bar--tile worlk to the door height and interesting carved features above.
Our hotel, Tour Hassan, named because it is near the famed Hassan Tower (which we will see tomorrow)
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 12 -- Rabat is now the capital city of Morocco. We first went to the Dar al-Makhzen, called the primary home of the king of Morocco, Mohamed VI (called M-6 for short). It is not his residence; it is the government buildings, etc. He has a personal residence on the outskirts of town. It was Sunday, a rest day for Moroccans, so there were not many people throughout the city, so it was enjoyable touring. We had lunch in a private home--was the home of the governor of Sale ( a suburb of Rabat). The lady who was our host was his daughter. We are finding that the typical Moroccan meal consists of a "salad" course (which is various cooked vegetables), a meat dish with couscous, potatoes, or some side, and a Moroccan dessert dish. We went to the Museum of Moroccan History and Civilizations and the Contemporary Art Museum in the afternoon. Next, we went to the Mausoleum of Mohamed V (the current king's grandfather). Here are also the remains of a mosque that fell in the earthquake of 1755 and the Hassan tower (our hotel is named after it). Lastly, we took a short walk thru the medina (or the old city). Dinner was at at a local restaurant where they had local music playing and, again a typical Moroccan meal.
Our hotel, Tour Hassan, named because it is near the famed Hassan Tower (which we will see tomorrow)
Our tour guide, Fattah, pronounced like the cheese, Feta
Mike with Atlantic Ocean in background
Our hotel, Tour Hassan, named because it is near the famed Hassan Tower (which we will see tomorrow)
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 13 -- We left Rabat and headed to Fez, stopping along the way in Meknes--Morocco's youngest Imperial city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built mostly by Sultan Moulay Ismail, one of Morocco's most powerful leaders, He was ruthless but a powerful builder. He reigned for 55 years and built Meknes from a small town to a majestic capital with 50 palaces and 15 miles of exterior walls. After lunch at a local restaurant, we went to Volubilis, the largest of the Romans' 17 colonies established in Morocco. The large earthquake in 1755 destroyed many of the buildings, but many have been excavated and partially rebuilt. There were many mosaic floors still viewable along with columns and archways. We arrived late in the afternoon at our new 5-star hotel, Hotel Sahrai.
In Meknes, we visited a museum dedicated to the music of Morocco, both old and modern. These old instruments were on display
Some of the architectural details from the museum which used to be a palace.
Dinner
In Meknes, we visited a museum dedicated to the music of Morocco, both old and modern. These old instruments were on display
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 14 -- Our first stop this morning was the old Mellah (Jewish quarter). We saw two 17th-century synagogues, a cemetery with over 12,000 Jewish graves, and royal gates. We then walked thru the medina (old town), seeing the Blue Gate (the most picturesque of the Old City gates) and walking thru the food market and many of the over 1900 alleyways. Cars are prohibited in the medina as many streets (alleys) are too narrow! If you see a house with Dar (name), it is small. If it says Riad (name), it is a larger house with a courtyard. Our lunch was at Riad Lys--a very nice restaurant. From the restaurant, we went to an artisan factory where pottery and ceramics are made. We came back to the hotel earlier than yesterday, so we had time to try to get caught up on the blog. Dinner was at our hotel ( and again, the portions were much too large).
Next pictures are of the Jewish quarter cemetary. This structure houses the graves of rabbis.
The graves are simple--white with a small plaque on the side and a spot for burning candles at the end
One of the girls who is painting the glaze design onto a dish
Next pictures are of the Jewish quarter cemetary. This structure houses the graves of rabbis.
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 15 -- We spent the morning walking thru another part of the medina. This area has some of the medina's oldest and most authentic handicraft streets. We passed a corridor where they die cloth for scarves and clothes. Then we went to a carpet store where they presented rugs made by women around the country. There were many beautiful rugs, but Lynne decided (much to Mike's dismay) on one made with a special technique where the Berber women first weave the rug, then go back and embroider patterns with a curved cedar needle. Each of these rugs is unique and incorporates one of their family patterns.
We went to the leather tanning and dyeing area, and they wanted you to buy. Next was an interesting scarf-weaving shop, but we didn't buy anything.
We passed thru the area where there were 14th-century Koranic schools. The last was the University of Al Karaouine, founded in 859, which is the oldest continually operating university, the first degree-awarding education institution, and amazingly, was founded by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri.
After lunch, we had the afternoon free before going to a restaurant in the medina for dinner.
A sign to our hotel. The hotel was fairly new and there is a lot of construction going on behind the hotel (as you can see in the picture)
Before going to the medina, we drove up to a fortress where you could see the whole of Fez. Parts of the town are called the old part, the old new, the new old, and farther away is the newest! Confusing
The waiter took a picture of our table at the dinner restaurant.
A sign to our hotel. The hotel was fairly new and there is a lot of construction going on behind the hotel (as you can see in the picture)
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 16 -- Today we were on the bus most of the day driving from Fez to Erfoud in the Sahara desert. We passed thru fertile plains, then the Middle Atlas mountains with its cedar forests, crossed the Ziz River, and passed a large oasis with rows and rows of palm trees (dates producers). Our hotel in Erfoud is a kasbah-style hotel. The buildings here are built with cement blocks but then covered on the exterior with adobe to preserve the look of the homes from the past. Erfoud is the gateway to the Sahara desert. Dinner was at the hotel.
As we drove thru the Middle Atlas mountains, we were in a protected area for the Barbary Apes. The bus stopped for a photo op as they were right by the road. These are related to the Barbary Apes on Gibralter
There were a few people with peanuts feeding the apes.
Closeup of one of the homes. They all have the adobe exterior which blends into the countryside.
As we drove thru the Middle Atlas mountains, we were in a protected area for the Barbary Apes. The bus stopped for a photo op as they were right by the road. These are related to the Barbary Apes on Gibralter
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 17 -- We first went to a cooperative group that excavates fossils from the local area. They described how they found and processed them for various uses/decorations. The fossils varied in size, color, and type depending on how deep they were found. We were able to make purchases if desired. We then drove to Rissini, which sits on the edge of the Sahara and was formerly the last staging post on the southern caravan route. We first visited the mausoleum of the great great grandfather of the current king. Our guide then showed us a ksar (a small kasbah) and a kasbah. The difference is that the kasbah has only one tribe living in it (about 20 families)--the ksar might have several tribes. Inside the kasbah, we went to the showroom of the artisan cooperative, where they served us tea, and then we shopped. The next stop was a restaurant in Rissini for lunch, where we had a Moroccan version of pizza. We had some time to rest and relax at the hotel. At 4:15, we all loaded into 4x4 SUVs (4 to a car plus driver) and headed out to the Sahara desert. It was a long drive, but once there, they loaded each of us onto a camel, and we rode out into the desert, probably about a mile. We got off the camels and had a short "happy hour" with wine and nibbles for about 30-40 minutes, then back on the camels to ride back to the tent. In the tent, we were served a nice supper, and some of the male servers played Moroccan music--even got some of us up to dance. After the long ride back, we arrived at the hotel about 10:30. A long but fun day!
The reception area to our hotel in Erfoud--the Palais du Desert
The pool at our hotel
Mike's camel
The reception area to our hotel in Erfoud--the Palais du Desert
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 18 -- We left Erfoud and stopped along the way to see how they dug wells for irrigation in the 11th century. Driving on to Tinghir, a mountain oasis that again has the adobe houses/buildings. We went to the Todra gorge then went to a restaurant to eat lunch. We drove on thru ElKelan des Mgouna (Morocco's rose capital) and arriving late in the afternoon at our hotel in Ouarzazate (pronounced waz-is-zat). This town and local area has been used for many movie backdrops one of which was The Gladiator.
Our guide telling us about the 11th century irrigation system
They dug a series of wells at different levels for the water to flow to the oasis
As we were driving thru town, we saw this worman with her donkey cart. The people who got off the bus tried to take her picture, but she wouldn't have it. Meanwhile Lynne was on the bus and took her picture thru the window. They are lucky if they own a donkey cart--otherwise they have to carry everything by hand!
Our guide telling us about the 11th century irrigation system
Please click on the picture for a slide show!
March 19 -- We started the day by going to Atlas Studios, where they have shot many scenes from different movies, including Gladiator. Gladiator II is getting ready to start shooting soon with Russell Crowe as producer. Heading toward Marrakech, we see an area of old kasbahs that were so closely constructed that they appear to be one building. However, you can't visit as they are falling apart. We then passed many typical villages with fortified walls and stone houses. At Tizi N Tichka, we came to the Pass thru the High Atlas mountains (approx 7415 feet elevation). The tallest mountain in the High Atlas mountains is about 11,000+ feet. We finally arrived in Marrakech, the ancient intersection of Berber, African, Mediterranean, and Asian cultural and artistic influences.
Our hotel, the Bergere Palace
Pointing to the rooms
The elevator doors in the hotel are decorated very ornately.
Our hotel, the Bergere Palace
March 20 -- Marrakech was settled in the early 11th century. Today it is the 4th largest city, with an exciting blend of modern architecture and an ancient walled medina. We first went to the Kotoubia Mosque, then to the El Bahia Palace, built in 1578 and lavishly decorated with Italian marble and gold. It took 15 years to construct, but just 100 years later, Moulay Ismail, a warrior king who brought Meknes into prominence, had the palace looted and destroyed. Next, we went to the Badia Palace, another large palace that was not destroyed.. After lunch, we went to the souk (the market). There were many items to be bought. Once we left the souk, we wandered the square where they were setting up food-eating places (places to get small meals at inexpensive prices). However, they also had many vendors in the square, snake charmers, musicians, etc. Quite noisy and hubbub!
The bouganvillas growing up the walls of the hotel
The Koutoubia Mosque in the distance
After dinner, walking back to the hotel--they had their lights turned on.
The bouganvillas growing up the walls of the hotel
March 21 -- Today we were picked up by horse and buggy for a ride first to Menara, a reservoir fed by snow from the High Atlas mountains. We hopped back on the buggies and were taken to the Majorelle Gardens, a botanical garden in the heart of the city. Jaques Majorelle created this garden in 1924 with a house that was his art studio. After he died, it fell in disrepair, but the clothes designer,Yves St Laurent, and his partner later bought the property and restored the gardens. Yves St Laurent had a personal collection of Berber artifacts which are now housed in a museum (in what was the former art studio). There are many species of plants and birds in the garden and they kept the cobalt blue colors that Majorelle had used. Next door to the garden is a museum dedicated to Yves St Laurent and his clothing designs. we went back to the hotel for lunch and had the afternoon free. Some of us chose to go back to the Souk for a few things we missed. Lynne, of course, added another blouse to what she had bought before. Dinner was at a nice restaurant in the medina.
Loading onto the buggy
Debbie and Larry on the buggy
A Flying Longhorn group picture taken with the Koutoubia mosque in background!
Loading onto the buggy
March 22 -- We checked out of the hotel and left Marrakesh at 8 am. A 3 1/2 hour drive brought us to Casablanca, Morocco's largest and most sophisticated city. We first stopped at Notre Dame de Lourdes, a Catholic church with impressive stained glass. From there, we had free time at the shore for lunch. Our next stop was the Grand Mosque of Hassan II, the world's third largest mosque (after the ones in Mecca and Medina). The minaret is 656 feet tall and the inside can accommodate 25,000 people. The grounds outside can accommodate another 80,000. It is also the only Moslem mosque in the country that is open to non-Moslems. We then drove to our hotel to check in. Tonight we have a farewell dinner with our group at a local restaurant. All of our group have early takeoffs in the morning .
The front of Notre Dame du Lourdes Catholic Cathedral.
Looking to the altar area of the cathedral--note the icon of Mary is above that of Jesus on the cross
Lynne and Mike with Humphrey Bougart & Ingrid Bergman poster in background. This was a very special meal for us.
The front of Notre Dame du Lourdes Catholic Cathedral.
In retrospect (from Mike): This trip was very special and different for Lynne and me. Much time was spent learning Moroccan history and culture. Our guide (a Moslem Arab) talked extensively about the harmony between the Arabs, Berbers, and Jews. I checked with a Jewish friend, who said it was probably not as harmonious as our tour described. But, my friend said the remaining Jews (about 2000) seemed to be treated fairly (compared to the rest of the Arab world). I observed a considerable amount of construction and renovation throughout the entire country. I could not get a firm response on who was paying for it (sometimes, I felt our guide said part of it was coming from the USA). However, the country does seem to be progressing into the 21st century. There is considerable growth, but I could not ascertain where the money was coming from to fund it. As a point of interest, Morocco was the first country to recognize the USA in the Revolutionary days. This trip was sponsored by the University of Texas Ex-Students Association (Flying Longhorns). This was our 4th trip with them, and I must honestly say it was just an excellent group of people to vacation with for two weeks.